Stanley automatic sliding doors are by far the most popular door system in America. Stanley doors are everywhere you go. From hospitals to libraries, Stanley automatic doors can be found. You may walk through Stanley automatic sliding doors and take them for granted. But when analyzed there is actually alot of moving parts that make the door operate properly. In this article we go over 4 secret tips on Stanley automatic sliding door adjustments.
Tip #1: How To Align Your Door PanelsHave you ever noticed that your automatic doors were not aligned. When the doors shut, you see that there is an uneven space when the two sliding panels meet together at the center of the doorway. Well this is actually extremely easy to fix. First turn the power off so that the doors are not powered. Next, you need to open the header. There is a screw at each end of the header. Unscrew both fasteners. The header is hinged and will pull out and lift up. Sometimes the header cover may be a tight fit. Once the header is open you will notice that there are 4 big nuts at the top of each active/moving door panel. 2 of the nuts are for the anti-riser wheels. The anti-riser wheel is designed to be adjusted just under the metal track extrusion, such that if the door panel gets bumped or lifted in the upward direction, the anti-riser will hit the metal track extrusion, and the door will not get derailed. The other 2 nuts are the urethane track roller wheels. The urethane track roller wheel is comprised of an eccentric allen key stud with a threaded nut. When you insert an allen key wrench into the stud of the roller and rotate it either clockwise or counter clockwise, the door height will raise or lower. Do this to both moving door panels until the door alignment is suitable. Keep in mind the nut on the outside of the roller stud must be loosened in order to rotate the allen key. Once the desired door alignment is set tightened the nut on the roller stud. Then set the antiriser wheels to the appropriate height and tightened the antiriser nuts. It is important that when you are done, make sure that the anti-riser wheels are not rolling on the metal extrusion. If they do, this will wear out the anti-riser wheels.
|Stanley 312462 Automatic Door Antiriser Wheel Assembly|
|Stanley 972312729 Automatic Door Track Roller Assembly|
Tip #2: How To Replace The BeltIs your Stanley automatic sliding door noisy? Do you hear a high pitched squeaky sound at the top of the door somewhere. Is louder at different temperatures? Or is it pretty much the same loud squeaky sound whenever the door opens or closes. Chances are your Stanley automatic sliding door belt is worn out. But don't worry! It is very easy to replace. First thing to do is measure the width of your entire Stanley door package (this means the entire width of all door panels). Once you find this then multiply by 2 and this is the approximate length (feet) of timing belt you need to purchase. Begin by shutting the power off to the door and opening the header. You will see that the belt wraps around the gearbox pulley on one side and an idler pulley on the other side. The belt connects to the door panels by 2 belt clips if you have a 4 panel door (bi-part), or 1 belt clip if you have a 2 panel door (single slide). Remove the belt clips and the belt. Cut the new belt to the exact length and install new belt. Important, especially on a 4 panel door (bi-part) to install the belt clips in the correct position. If you accidentally install the lower belt clip in the upper position, or vice versa the door will open and close in the opposite direction.
|Stanley Automatic Sliding Door Timing Belt For Bi-Parts and Single Slides|
Tip #3: How To Replace The Bottom GuideBottom guides are located at the bottom of each moving door panel. They guide the moving door panel as it moves. Without a bottom guide, the door panel would not be secure when sliding open or closed. There are 2 types of Stanley bottom guides, depending on which Stanley door configuration you have. If you have a Stanley door system where all door panels (moving and stationary door panels) can swing out, then you have a full breakout bottom guide. If you have a Stanley door configuration where only the moving door panels can swing out and the stationary panels cannot, then you have a fixed sidelite bottom guide. To replace any Stanley bottom guide, first start by turning the power to the door off. Then loosen the antirisers, so that you can lift the door. Carefully slide the door open, and then lift it off of the track. Set the door on it's side. From there you can access the bottom guide. Full breakout bottom guides are held in by 4 phillips fasteners. While the fixed sidelite bottom guides are held in by 2 phillips fasteners. Bottom guides wear out. A defective bottom guide can cause the Stanley automatic doors to not close, but reopen. This is very common when the bottom guide gets jammed or sticks, and the automatic door controller thinks there is an obstruction, so it reopens the door. Defective bottom guides can also make a lot of noise. If you hear noise at the bottom of your door, your bottom guides will need replacement.
|Stanley 515191 Right Hand Fixed Sidelite Bottom Guide|
|Stanley 515192 Left Hand Fixed Sidelite Bottom Guide|
|Stanley 515265 Full Breakout Bottom Guide Assembly|
Tip #4 How To Adjust Your Automatic Door SensorFor information regarding the available adjustments of the Stanley SU100 automatic door sensor please read our article, "Stanley Automatic Door Sensor Adjustments - What You Need To Know!"
|Stanley SU100 Automatic Door Sensor|
With these 4 tips you will be able to adjust your Stanley Automatic Sliding Door. Please keep in mind to always refer to the manufacturer's instructions and information, as it is constantly updated and always make sure these adjustments are made by certified automatic door technicians. Of course if you have any questions feel free to contact us at email@example.com . And if you need any Stanley automatic door replacement parts you can purchase them on our website below.
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